Fits razor mx650 and pairs well with my 72v 20mah wroyeti battery.. I can travel at least 25miles and the motor and controller are powerful and good quality..hard boot switch plugged and it takes off with nod delay or lag..I'm also able to get up to 45.. I haven't had an issue yet.. but if I do I will update Read more

Mon monteur fonctionne tjs pas.. il mon renvoyer un nouveau et il arrete apres 5sec. Je suis en attente avec le service.... Read more

great thanks Read more

OVER PRICED & It was installed on THURSDAY - FRIDAY And DEAD Before SUNDAY NIGHT & No joke , no exaggeration , no b.s But me and my daughter did get caught in the rain To give it some credit but It wasn't a crazy rainfall though NICE WHILE IT LASTED but CONTROLLER MOSSFET BLEW UP P.s If you use this controller protect it from any moisture If you get caught in the rain or a bunch of moisture Might as well bag up And try to Protect your controller and wiring Also is there any way I could get a replacement Or some different options I could use like the 80amp controller For discount or something Read more

The product is completely fine. I got it to convert my bike into an electric bike. I literally just got the mechanics and electronics all to work. I have no idea what the hard boot wires are for because I tried to start it with that in and nothing happened so I just leave it disconnected. For me I needed to mount the motor so the sprocket was on the left side of the bike to take advantage of electronic breaking which the motor controller does not do. I'm taking a three phase rectifier and am going to have some relays in series to connect it back to the battery only when the motor controller is first disconnected but I have yet to test it). However the motor is hardwired to spin forward in the opposite direction for that side.(motor spin direction is important because the motor controller does not allow full speed in the reverse mode) TO CHANGE THE DIRECTION OF SPIN: simply switch any and only two main motor wires with each other but because of the holifex sensor it won't work at all then. Next you need to do the same thing to the leads of the holifex. The holifex has 5 cords. 2 (red and black) are only for power and the other three correspond with the main motor inputs. I switched blue and yellow on the motor but when I did the same on the holifex it still didn't work because they didn't correlate the color of the wire in the holifex with the color wire of the motor it actually sensed so you might have to cut strip and try all combinations till it works. But that's how you hard wire it to go in the other direction. I suggest cutting the wires from the controller and not the motor. Also to people who complained about the Chinese on the handle... Figure it out. It's easy to remember once you try them all and see what they do but if you want others to know too then just take a Sharpe marker and Mark 123 and FR on the switches. Litteraly 1min to do all of that! I'll add some stats when I get a battery with enough power but a 5p 12s battery got me to 15mph+ on flatish road on low setting. Med and high seem to try then stop 1sec later but I think its my bms throttling the controller. Someone said it could get you up to 60mph but let me test it. Wires coming out of the motor controller can be difficult to figure out but remember blue to blue for throttle. Update: I decided I'm going to make a completely new battery entirely so the new battery will be 20p by 20s I'm going to make it in four separate packs each pack will have 20 parallel and five rows in series to give me the maximum amount of nickel to spread out the current. I'm going to use a 50 amp output 20s bms. If you want to make your own regenerative braking on top of the rectifier you'll also need 1500w boost converter with constant voltage control to boost the voltage up to YOUR batteries charging voltage. You can also plug a solar panel into the same boost converter to charge the battery. If you want to charge the battery with a wall outlet I'd suggest looking into server power supplies you can get 1100w for 30 bucks-ish you just need to research ahead of time how to wire the leads to turn it on. To power any low voltage equipment you might want to look into a voltage step down from 72v to 12v. If you need a lower voltage I would suggest getting the step down to 12v and then a 12v to whatever you need (probs 5v) because a lot of DC stuff uses 12v cuz cars. It would also be a good idea to get a battery power output monitor just keep track of the Watts going in and out and battery voltage. If you're going to use this motor it's probably the cheapest one for the wattage but the in wheel Motors are a lot more Compact and take up a lot less space in the frame of the bike that could be used for battery. I just recently learned how to make an in wheel motor and besides not knowing a good source of cheap coated copper wire I think I would probably make my own motor and motor controller. For the average Joe though this is probably your best budget option just don't forget to buy a chain tensioner! Just do it (12 bucks will save a lot of trouble). Read more